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3 Σεπτεμβρίου 2022

Confessions of a villa virgin: why Cephalonia was worth waiting for

Ben Machell thought holiday rentals were only for other people — until a family trip to the Ionian changed his mind

Thursday September 01 2022, 5.00pm BST, The Times

Until very recently I’d never been on a villa holiday. When I was a child it wasn’t something we did, and as an adult I suppose I always had my own prejudices and preconceptions about what it involved. Even the very word — “villa” — seemed, to me, to hint at something both grand and degenerate, a place of gluttonous Roman nobles or the playboy sons of Middle Eastern dictators — or, more recently, just a load of Love Island contestants. No. Give me and my young family the honourable asceticism of Normandy Eurocamp pitches or sixth-floor Costa Blanca Airbnbs instead. We are simple, God-fearing folk. What we are not is “villa people”.

Only then my other half gently pointed out that “villa” really just means “house”, that they’re not all going to have 18 bedrooms and be constructed of solid marble and, what’s more, renting one for a week somewhere hot and beachy could work out less than staying in a nice hotel plus — plus! — we’d have our own pool, which would absolutely fry the tiny minds of our six and seven-year-old children. Which is how the four of us eventually found ourselves skimming over the Ionian Sea and coming into land at Cephalonia airport to spend a week in our very own villa.

As soon as we piled out of the hire car at the villa, a steady stream of advantages began to reveal themselves. The first thing to strike me was that I didn’t really care that my kids were being incredibly loud. Volume-wise our children both go to 11, and on our last holiday — at a nice, low-key resort — it became a genuine source of stress to me as their demented grunts and shrieks bounced across the surface of the huge communal pool and exploded in the faces of innocent civilians trying to relax.

The pool at Villa Chrysa

STAMENIS NIKIFOROS

But now? Now I couldn’t have cared less. There was nobody there but us. I quickly learnt to love this solitude for other reasons too. I could open a midday can of Mythos without feeling self-conscious. Nor was there any need to be embarrassed about the red-raw fingernail marks that always end up covering my back and torso on holiday. Other poolside guests might misconstrue them as the product of nights of holiday passion, whereas they’re really just the result of my children desperately clinging onto me in the water like torpedoed sailors grabbing onto a life belt.

The villa itself was great: modern, comfortable and airy, with two bedrooms at either end of a large open-plan living space. I had worried that we’d find it hard to pull ourselves away from the pool and the plushness of the place and that, as a result, we’d never get around to exploring the island. In fact the opposite was true: with the car ready and waiting on the driveway, and with us secure in the knowledge that nobody was going to steal our loungers if we left, it was a brilliant base camp for expeditions.

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We stayed in the south of the island and hit a couple of the nearby sandy beaches, where Greeks — either native Cephalonians or visitors from the mainland — outnumbered foreign tourists. This made the people-watching infinitely more interesting. A personal highlight involved a group of well-oiled and muscular local lads assembling at one end of the beach, like the Spartans making their last stand in 300, ready to take on a horde of Greek-American college girls who had arrived by coach and were advancing towards them menacingly. I wanted to watch the outcome, but our children were getting hungry so we had to leave. I’ve no doubt that the bards already sing songs of the heroism that transpired.

Ben with his family

COURTESY OF BEN MACHELL

We made a couple of longer trips too, which gave us a chance to “ooh” and “aah” over Cephalonia’s rugged beauty, particularly as getting anywhere on the island involves driving over at least a couple of mountains. Were some of the roads incredibly steep and ridiculously narrow? Yes. Did the local custom of driving within two millimetres of your passing car at 60mph take a bit of getting used to? Also yes. But once you made peace with the fact that you had to do pretty much everything in second gear and that the Cephalonians could all work in Hollywood as professional stunt drivers, it was possible to relax a little. Which was just as well, as you can’t really get very far on the island without a car. We were advised to reserve ours well in advance — demand spikes over the summer as do prices, especially since Cephalonia has not been immune to the hire-car shortages that have afflicted other destinations.

We decided to visit the twin attractions of the Melissani lake and the Drogarati cave in the central part of the island. En route, though, driving down into a wide valley, we found the road blocked. Hundreds of cars had converged around what turned out to be a large monastery; we parked up and got out to see what was going on. It was, we were told, the feast of St Gerasimos, the island’s patron saint. A pilgrimage was culminating and thousands of people thronged in and out of the domed church, the interior of which glowed with candles and the gold nimbuses of a thousand saints and martyrs, whose icons were painted in fresco across every inch of the interior. It was gorgeous, almost as gorgeous — according to my girlfriend — as the many young Orthodox priests milling around with their luxurious beards, gnomic smiles and big dark eyes. The whole thing ended with the preserved body of St Gerasimos himself being carried over the bodies of several women who had fallen to the floor, writhing, screaming and possessed, only to be cured the moment his remains had passed overhead. “What just happened?” my son asked. “A miracle,” I told him. He nodded thoughtfully. “Cool.”

Exploring Melissani lake

ALAMY

Eventually, we made it to the subterranean Melissani lake — the reported home of several nymphs — and the Drogarati cave, which were both unashamed tourist attractions but no less pretty for it. Driving to the very northern tip of the island we spent a good few hours in Fiskardo, a ridiculously picturesque harbour town of Venetian buildings and one of the few places on Cephalonia to survive the devastating earthquake of 1953 entirely unscathed. While enjoying a long seafood lunch here, we watched some very rich people spend an hour trying — and failing badly — to moor their massive yacht, which was great fun and which I’d recommend to anybody.

On another excursion, we made an impromptu stop for lunch at Old Time Cafe in the village of Troianata. Approaching the tiny eatery, we weren’t even sure if we’d be able to get a sandwich. Instead, we were seated on a veranda with stunning views of the valley below and treated to gut-busting plates of traditional homecooked Cephalonian cuisine by the all-action owner and hostess. It was completely delicious and unexpected, and absolutely worth seeking out.

Fiskardo village

GETTY IMAGES

We went on a boat trip too. There are plenty of day cruises to enjoy from ports all over the island, and from Argostolion, the island’s capital, we had a great time with Captain Dennis aboard his motor-yacht the Lady O. Along with several other families we visited three beaches around the southwest of the island where we swam, snorkelled and — at one beach — enjoyed an impromptu wet clay skin treatment. It was low-key but with plenty of bonhomie: there was a bar and a deliciously simple barbecue lunch; towards the end, there may have even been some dancing (€55 per adult and €35 per child; kefaloniacruise.com).

But for all the island’s charm, the highlight of every day was coming home. The kids would jump in the pool, I would fiddle about with the huge gas barbecue — we saved about £3 million on food by grilling our own most evenings — and my girlfriend would pretend to be annoyed by the horrendously cute stray kittens who would come meowing around every evening and, somehow, mysteriously, end up with a chicken shish each. By our final night, I felt a moron for ever having to be persuaded that renting a house on a beautiful Greek island was, in fact, a good idea. But that’s life. Sometimes you just have to work these things out for yourself.

Ben Machell was a guest of Vintage Travel, which has seven nights’ self-catering at Villa Chrysa on Cephalonia from £998 (vintagetravel.co.uk). For car hire, try zestcarrental.com. Fly to Cephalonia

Assos Seagull, Assos

Cephalonia: where to stay, what to do, where to eat

Villas

Assos Seagull, Assos
With its colourful houses right on the water, its beach and a Venetian citadel on its headland, Assos is Cephalonia’s most bijou village and this little villa is an ideal base from which to drink it all in. The smart yet homey bedrooms will suit a couple or small family, while anyone should relish wonderful views over Assos and the coast from a pool terrace and through massive windows. Just a short hop away is Myrtos, the beach featured on half of the island’s advertising posters thanks to its sheer white cliffs and Yves Klein-blue water.
Details Seven nights’ self-catering for four from £2,011 (oliverstravels.com)

Villa Violet, Minies
Although only a few minutes’ drive from Cephalonia’s airport, it will seem worlds away once you arrive at three-floor Villa Violet. A contemporary take on Ionian architecture, its rooms come immersed in greenery and overlook the sea and mostly sandy beach. You get a large infinity pool for those last sunset-with-cocktails dips, an outdoor kitchen and BBQ, and games facilities galore: billiards, poker, foosball and darts. Should you overindulge in the tavernas at Minies — easily done — a CrossFit trainer and treadmill also stand by.
Details Seven nights’ self-catering for ten from £9,336 (thegreekvillas.com)

Hotels

Hotel Emelisse, Fiskardo
The only village to survive 1953’s earthquake, northerly Fiskardo is the chic Portofino of Cephalonia. Emelisse is a ten-minute walk (or free shuttle ride) away, so you can spot celebrities harbourside then retreat to heavenly tranquillity where staff make you feel like you’re their favourite. Rooms are minimalist with a touch of Bali while the views are gorgeous and the pools equally lovely, although guests may also swim off the rocks. In the evenings, dine on traditional island fare by candlelight overlooking a dark sea.
Details Seven nights’ B&B from £1,103pp, including flights and transfers (tui.co.uk)

F Zeen Retreat, Livathos

F Zeen Retreat, Livathos
F Zeen (which sounds like the ancient Greek term for “the good life”) is an adults-only, eco-friendly bolt hole with such a relaxed attitude it’s easy to lose all track of time. Cocooned amid gardens on Lourdas Bay, it emphasises nature and wellness from the architectural use of natural materials to two spas, three pools and daily yoga, meditation and fitness classes. Residents can use bikes, kayaks or stand-up paddleboards for free before dining on organic produce at two exceptional restaurants. After dark, head for the outdoor cinemaand sink into its giant beanbag chairs.
Details B&B doubles from £275 (fzeenretreat.com)

Avithos Resort, Svoronata
In the green and peaceful village of Svoronata, 20 minutes from the airport, this laid-back little boutique hotel has so many repeat clients you must book well in advance. Rooms feature soft colours and rattan highlights, and there are four-person studios perfect for families. There’s also a big pool that never feels crowded and a bar that serves scrummy food and moreish cocktails. Blue Flag beaches and fabulous restaurants are within a 15-minute walk.
Details Seven nights’ room-only from £485pp, including flights and transfers (jet2holidays.com)

The view from Alati

Restaurants

Alati All-Day Bar & Restaurant, Paralia Alaties
Alati is that taverna you dream about: it’s located at the end of a winding track off the Assos-Fiskardo road, just a few steps from a quiet little beach, and the kind of place where you want to linger from sunset until stars fill the sky. It helps that everything — the cocktails, the octopus and prawn saganaki, the seared tuna encrusted in sesame seeds so tender you can cut with a fork, the ceviche with mango and pomegranate, the tangy cheesecake with fig jam — is so yummy. You’ll want to come back again and again.
Details Mains from £9 (alati-all-day-bar-restaurant.business.site)

Esperides, Svoronata
This evening-only venue, set in a huge orange grove and prettily illuminated at night (when you book, ask for a table in the orchard), blends contemporary Greek with Italian touches: think warm pitta with savoury dips, feta and honey parcels in filo, linguine with prawns, or pork in orange sauce, as well as excellent vegan choices, accompanied by Cephalonian tipples (including orange wine). The orange sorbet and cake are worth a visit on their own.
Details Mains from £8 (esperides-restaurant.business.site)

Taverna Tzivras, Argostoli
As tourism isn’t the be-all and end-all in Cephalonia, it still has institutions like lunch-only Tzivras. In business since 1933, now run by the founder’s grandson, and just up the street from Argostoli’s Shell station, it has no views and no frills. There is, however, a classic steam table, and the food’s terrific. Just point at what you want — traditional meat pie; moussaka; stuffed veggies; Greek salad — and the delightful characters working here will bring it to your table with a basket of crusty bread.
Details Mains from £4 (facebook.com/tzivrasrestaurant)

Antisamos beach

ALAMY

Activities

Beach to beach
Three miles from Sami and framed by forest, the pale-pebble Antisamos beach scored global stardom after it featured in the Captain Corelli’s Mandolin movie, so you’ll need to arrive early to beat the crowds. Around midday, drive to magical Melissani lake, which is really a 118ft-deep cave, and pay boatmen about £6 to row you out to where a beam-me-up-Scotty shaft of light illuminates ethereal shades of blue and violet. Follow the four-mile walking trail from Antisamos to Koutsoupia beach; well worth it for paradisiacal white sands that are usually empty save for a souvlaki stand.

Sea kayaking
Much of the coast is dotted with stunning beaches and coves inaccessible by road, rendering them ideal for exploration by sea kayak. Outdoor Kefalonia offers a range of guided excursions that never depart far from wherever you’re based and factor in time for swims. The return jaunt around Fiskardo is most popular, while tours of the Atheras peninsula’s bleached cliffs appeal to adventurous types. Or rent a kayak and paddle off on your own.
Details Five to eight-hour excursions from £55 (outdoorkefalonia.com)

Vineyards in Cephalonia

ALAMY

Wine tour and views
Cephalonia is famous for robola, a crisp white grape grown on its southern limestone hills. Many wineries welcome visitors, but you’ll discover much more with a local expert on small-group tours with tastings. If time allows, make the 45-minute trek up to Mount Ainos’s 5,341ft summit for the majestic Zeus-eye view over the Ionian islands from here.
Details Four-and-a-half-hour tours from £55 (kefaloniawinetour.com)
Dana Facaros

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